Mrs Wilkes' Boardinghouse Cookbook

By Sema Wilkes, John T. Edge / Savannah, GA

In 1943, a young and determined Sema Wilkes took over a nondescript turn-of-the-century boardinghouse on a sun-dappled, brick street in historic downtown Savannah. Her goal was modest to make a living by offering comfortable lodging and homestyle Southern cooking served family style in the downstairs dining room.

Mrs. Wilkes' reputation was strong, and business was brisk from the beginning, but it was coverage in Esquire and the New York Times, and even a profile on David Brinkley's evening news program, that brought Southern food lovers from all over the world to her doorstep.

Sema recently passed away in her 90s, and now four generations of Wilkeses help her keep the restaurant's tables laden with platters of her legendary fried chicken, pork ribs, and biscuits. Friends and strangers pass bowls brimming with her sublime butterbeans, collard greens, mashed sweet potatoes, and banana pudding. The line still snakes out the front door and down the street, where along with the locals it's not uncommon to find Walter Cronkite or Terry Kay, among other familiar faces, waiting for their turn at Mrs. Wilkes' table.

With over 250 recipes, and culinary historian John T. Edge's colorful telling of Mrs. Wilkes' contribution to Savannah and Southern cuisine, the Mrs. Wilkes' Cookbook is a tribute to a way of cooking -- and eating -- that must not be forgotten.